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Building a Compost Pile

Ever wanted to build a compost pile but didn’t know where to start? If you are like me, composting comes with many questions, such as what materials to use, what kind of maintenance and upkeep is required, and how to solve problems when they arise. People get bogged down with questions that keep them from participating in this remarkable process. Here is a simple guide to making and maintaining a successful compost pile.


Building a Compost Pile


Start by finding a suitable location. The compost pile I started sits in the backyard corner away from the wooden fence and under the shade of trees. The shade helps to limit sun exposure during hot Texas summers and protects the pile from brutal rains that can wash away your pile.


When finding a good location, try to find a level surface with well-draining soil. If you don’t have that option, you can make a bin structure or erosion wall that keeps your pile from washing out.



The materials I chose for building a compost bin were five 3-foot t-posts and a metal cloth or chicken wire to create a three-walled frame.


You can build something more robust and sturdy, like a four-wall wooden structure. For a wooden bin, place metal sheets on the inner walls to keep the compost from decomposing the wood holding it. You can make a pile without a structure if you want to go completely minimalist. Some people put more time into maintaining their open pile or cover it with a tarp and weights. Whatever you choose to do, make sure your pile is at least 1 cubic yard or 3 ft in height x 3 ft in width x 3 ft in length in size. A cubic yard in size will ensure enough materials for an effective decomposition process.


Once you have a good location and bin, it is time to add materials for the compost pile. A balance of carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich materials needs to be maintained. To maintain this balance, keep equal parts of “brown” and “green” materials in your compost pile. “Brown” materials are high in carbon and contain dried plant materials, including straw, wood chips, dried leaves, dry sticks, and sawdust. “Green” materials are high in nitrogen and add moisture to the pile. They can include any plant materials that are relatively fresh and wet, including fruits and vegetables, green leaves, egg shells, coffee grounds, and green grass clippings.



To maintain a 1:1 ratio of “greens” and “browns,” start by adding a layer of “brown” materials to the bottom of your compost pile, followed by a layer of “green” materials. Continue layering your compost pile this way until you have created a pile that is at least one cubic yard in size. Your final layer and what covers the entire pile, should be “brown” materials.


Maintenance and Process


A helpful tool to use in maintaining a compost pile is the thermometer. The temperature of your pile tells you how effective the decomposition process is and what maintenance is necessary to ensure its health.

The inner temperature of your compost pile should be HOT! I’m talking between 135 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Microbes release heat and energy when they work hard, creating this steamy environment. After a few days of building your compost pile, you should start to see temperatures approaching the sweet spot and stay in that range for the next 15 to 20 weeks. If your compost pile starts to fall under that range, it usually means one of the following:

  1. It’s time to turn your compost pile. When the inner temperature falls below the sweet range, it can mean that the pile needs aeration, and a mixing of materials is needed for the microbes to do their job. Mix in more coarse and bulky “brown” materials, such as straw and wood, to create more pore space in your pile to add airflow.

  2. Your pile is too dry or too wet. If the pile lacks enough or too much moisture, the environment will not be suitable for the microbes to do their job effectively. Grab a handful of decomposing materials from the middle of your pile and squeeze. Add water to the pile if the material has no moisture and crumbles like dry sand. When squeezed and water pours out, turn your pile and let it rest until the pile drains.

  3. Your carbon and nitrogen ratio is off. Ensure you have enough “green” and “brown” materials. Add materials until you get close to equal parts “greens” and “browns.”

Use a shovel or pitchfork to turn your pile. The goal is to invert and mix all materials so that the top layers are now on the bottom and the bottom layers are now on the top. You should turn your compost pile once every week or every two weeks. Again, keep an eye on the temperature. If your compost pile is in the correct temperature range, you do not need to do any maintenance.


After being in the temperature range for 15 to 20 weeks, you should see the temperature fall within ten degrees of the outside temperature. This indicates that the composting process is slowing down and composting has finished. You should no longer see large debris in your pile. The pile should consist of dark soil that smells pleasant and earthy like a forest during a rainstorm. Remove the compost and sift out the larger pieces before placing the finished composted soil on a tarp separate from the rest of the pile. Let the finished product rest for 4 weeks before using it. This rest period allows the chemical and biological processes to stabilize and not cause harm to seeds or new seedlings.


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